QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
Superior Pine Flooring and Paneling
Q. Why should I consider WrennWood® Prefinished Pine Flooring instead of your traditional flooring?
A. You get all of the beauty of WrennWood® superior pine flooring with easy installation and a special durable finish. Installation is so easy, in fact, that you can probably do it yourself, saving the time and money required for professional installation and finishing.
Plus, WrennWood® Prefinished Flooring comes with a 15-year guarantee and is available in natural, butterscotch or rust colors.
Some still prefer our more traditional WrennWood® superior pine flooring. Because of the way prefinished flooring is made and installed, a tiny, recessed groove runs along the surface between rows. Many people enjoy this look, but others may opt for the familiar appearance of our traditional pine flooring. Others have a particular color in mind and need a floor they can stain themselves.
The overwhelming enthusaism for WrennWood® Prefinished Pine Flooring comes from homeowners who want to bring the natural beauty of Southern Yellow Pine into their homes in a way that's easy, durable and economical.
Q. Does WrennWood® flooring need to be acclimated to my current weather conditions before installation?
A. Yes, as with all pine flooring, WrennWood® needs to be placed in the house where it will be installed, with the heat or air conditioning running for at least one week. However, we recommend acclimating the flooring for two weeks, if at all possible, to achieve the best results.
Q. Must I install a moisture barrier?
A. If you are installing WrennWood® over a crawl space, where the environment near the floor will change significantly, use a black paper moisture barrier.
If you're installing WrennWood® over a dry, well-heated basement, a moisture barrier is not usually necessary — though installing one never hurts!
Q. How do I install WrennWood® flooring?
A. Exactly as you would install any hardwood plank flooring. First of all, make sure you leave about one-half of an inch between the end of the flooring and the wall — this is necessary to provide room for the floor to expand and contract with the changing temperature and humidity — and cover that gap with standard moulding.
When fastening the floor follow a few easy steps:
- Blind-nail planks through the tongue side of the floor.
- Slide the groove portion of each plank over the tongue of its adjacent plank.
- Tap the plank firmly into place.
- Nail that plank's tongue into the subfloor.
Q. How do I make sure all planks remain straight and keep one end from gaining as I continue the installation?
A. It's important to begin by using a chalk line to make sure your first row is straight. At one end, nail planks in a row, end to end, using your chalk line as a guide.
When you reach the end of that first row, the final board will need to be cut so that it ends about one-half inch from the wall, allowing that much-needed space for expansion due to changing temperature and humidity.
Take the remaining piece from your final cut and use it to start the next row, moving down the room in the opposite direction — working your way back to the end of the room where you began installation.
This method keeps one helps keep the entire installation balanced and keeps one end from "gaining" on the other.
Q. How do I know where to stagger my end joints, so the flooring will have that random joint pattern everyone wants?
A. By using the method described above — beginning each new row with the remnant from the row you just finished — you will create that random joint pattern. If you happen to have a long piece of the plank remaining, it will be installed adjacent to a smaller one. If the remnant is a short piece, it will be installed next to a longer one.
Trying to set short pieces aside and then deciding when and where to use them can be a monumentally frustrating experience, not to mention a waste of time and effort. What's worse, that method sometimes doesn't even work!
Another advantage: Using the remaining plank from the final cut means less waste, because you use the short pieces as you install the floor.
We saw one man install an 800 square-foot room, and walk away from the completed project holding nothing but a small stack of blocks under one arm and a five-gallon bucket in the other — essentially no waste at all!
Q. When I buy direct, how do I know how much WrennWood® flooring to order?
A. Don't worry! Just give us the square footage of your room and we'll calculate the linear footage of flooring needed to complete the job.
When we calculate the amount of flooring needed, we'll even take into account how much of the flooring width is "lost" in the installation process.
Though each plank has a specific overall width, part of that width is the plank's tongue, which is inserted into the groove of an adjacent plank. This means that some of the overall width "disappears" into the adjacent plank as the flooring is locked together, and that portion of the width cannot be used to calculate how much flooring is needed for the room.
We will quote you a price per square foot of flooring for your room. That amount takes into account the loss of width, as a result of the tongue-and-groove installation, as well as an extra 10 percent of flooring needed to account for inevitable waste incurred during any installation process.
Q. Can I apply a stain to WrennWood® flooring and paneling?
A. Absolutely! WrennWood® superior pine flooring and paneling accepts any stain, and the color you choose can provide a very different look and feel to your living space.
For best results, and to protect your investment, we suggest having a professional handle this portion of your installation.
Q. How do I finish WrennWood® flooring?
A. Unless you have experience in floor finishing, we strongly recommend that you allow a professional to handle this potentially-tricky process. After all, it would be a terrible shame to spend the money and time needed to install a high-quality floor — only to have it ruined, at the very end, during the finishing process!
Professional finishers will sand your WrennWood® flooring to a smooth finish, so the boards are flat and you cannot feel any edge between them. After that, a stain will be applied, if that's what you prefer, and several layers of finishing material will be applied — all with very light sanding in between coats.
We suggest allowing finishers to select products they have used effectively in your area. But, in any case, never use shelf-grade polyurethane on WrennWood® flooring! For solid results, you will need to use a quality finishing material that includes several different hardeners and a UV blocker to prevent darkening over the years.
I used WrennWood® products in two log homes I have built. Their tongue and groove wall paneling and knotty pine flooring were great additions to our log homes and added a lot of character.
Greensboro, North Carolina